Gardens for Humanity presented a vermiculture workshop, Worm Wrangling 101, at the Camp Verde Community Library on Wednesday, May 31.
Ataiyo Viafora of Gardens for Humanity led the workshop, which focused on raising worms to process organic waste and creating nutrient-rich soil. Viafora has been worm composting for about five years and has tried a variety of different techniques.
Worm composting creates a diverse microbiome and has many benefits and uses. Worm compost doesn’t need to be turned regularly like other forms of compost, as the worms turn and aerate the waste.
Creating a worm composting bin can be done in many different ways, using buckets, a pit in the ground, Tupperware or containers designed for worm composting. Viafora demonstrated a simple design made of two large buckets, with the top bucket having holes at the bottom to allow water to drain into the lower bucket.
The worms used for composting are red wigglers, the same type commonly used for fishing. One pound of worms can process about one pound of food every day.
Viafora reminded attendees that worms need to be fed a balanced diet and not too much of one food waste item. For example, adding too many lemons will result in a very acidic soil. In addition to nitrogen-rich materials, such as food waste and manure, worms also need woody, carbon rich materials, such as wood chips, cardboard and paper. To some degree, what you put in is what you get out, Viafora observed; adding lots of beets could result in an iron-rich soil.
Viafora likened worm composting to building a fire, which has to be fed so it will keep growing. With more worms, a composting bin must be fed more food, just as a bigger flame needs bigger logs, yet will burn out more quickly if not continually fed. Keeping moisture high is important, as worms will retreat from dry and bright areas.
One of the workshop participants described how he uses worm compost as fertilizer and said that he found it to work better than buying nutrients from the store.
Worm soil can turn smelly and sour if not given enough air, a mistake Viafora said he once made by overwatering. Such soil can be given back to the worms to be rebalanced.
The rate of decomposition in worm composting depends on the amount of food and the temperature. Soil is ready to be used once it has been reduced to a fine material with no remaining pieces of food waste. Some composters shred or blend their food waste to speed up decomposition.
Worms prefer temperatures between 70 and 90 degrees. Viafora currently keeps his worm bin in an area that receives six hours of full sun each day and monitors the soil to ensure it doesn’t dry out. If the bin gets too hot, Viafora will add carbon-rich materials like paper or create more air holes.
Viafora gave a demonstration on how to start a worm bin from scratch. He recommended using one pound of worms to start, with moist soil, either store-bought or from your garden. He then added aged manure; fresh manure can be used as long as its potency is taken into account. The manure was followed by pine needles, juniper berries, brown paper and squash from Viafora’s lunch. He suggested using equal ratios of manure, nitrogen-rich food waste items and carbon-rich items.
While Viafora said he preferred to bury food material rather than layer it, either technique will work. Again, moisture is essential. Worms will not digest if they are in a dry pocket.
Worm “tea” or “juice” is the mineral- and microberich excess water that drains through the worm compost. The worm tea is best used right after watering, as it can become stagnant if left for too long. It can still be used, but might need to be bubbled or diluted.
